Back to the Grind: Cuba, NM to Ghost Ranch, NM (Mile 642-697)

July 21st - July 24th

Four days ago, it feels longer than that, my Dad drove me back to Cuba, New Mexico to continue the trail. Saying goodbye is never easy especially after a month of being back home with family. Getting back into things always takes a little time. But I am back in my routine and no longer miss the comforts of home. I enjoy the sounds of the streams and the wind blowing through the pine trees. I like waking up to the birds singing and laying in my sleeping bag at night staring up at the stars. I’m grateful for the comfort my tent gives me, keeping me dry on rainy evenings.

On the first day back I crossed some of the greenest meadows I have ever seen. I stumbled on a herd of at least 50 elk laying in the tall grass. Once they spotted me they got up and took off into the woods. I could hear them bugling to each other as they moved. It was almost surreal as if I was watching a movie scene out of a Wild West movie. I continued on and just enjoyed being back in the wild. My goal is to ease back into things so I started off with just doing 9 miles on the first day. It made for an early camp. I set up my tent and laid there listening to the woods around me as I thought about everyone back home. That was definitely one of my more lonely nights.

The following morning I woke up with a renewed spirit. My thoughts were no longer of home, but of the trail ahead of me. The sun was shining on the pine trees causing them to glow a bright golden color. I packed up my stuff and set out on the trail. An hour in I spooked a female elk causing her to jump across the trail 10 feet in front of me.

As the day progressed I watched the storm clouds continue to grow darker and bigger all around me. On my map I could see there was a small shelter about 4.5 miles from me. I decided to try and make it there before the storm hit. As I was walking I could hear the thunder off in the distance. I would look behind me and see the shadow of rain coming down on the distant mountains. I knew it was heading my way. I managed to get to the shelter and set up my tent just as the first drops of rain started coming down.

As I was walking up to the shelter I picked some fruit from the yucca cactus and boiled it. I heard you could eat it and it taste like a potato. It wasn’t bad, aside for a few grub worms that surfaced in the boiling water. I just scooped them aside, but after a few bites I decided it was time for my main dinner. I did about 15 miles and fell asleep to the sound of rain.

In the morning I woke up glad that the rain stopped. I began to pack up my tent and dry off my rain tarp. I needed to fill up my water so I headed down the road to the nearest spring. After topping off my water I continued on for the day. The rain from the previous night caused mud to stick to my shoes, so my feet felt pretty heavy. Eventually I got to some dryer ground and continued on.

I came off the mountain and into the Chama River Canyon Wilderness. Surrounding me on every side are massive canyons with layers of different color rocks. Colors of orange, red, and yellow are all around and light up as the sun hits them. I was out of the woods so the sun was beating down on me. But I managed to come to the Rio Chama River one of the main tributaries to the Rio Grande. I dipped my legs in to cool off at first. I was two miles from my campsite along the river so I figured I would make camp and then go for a swim. I set up my tent as the storms built on the horizon. Once everything was set up I stripped down and got into the river. The cold water never felt so refreshing and since I hadn’t showered in 3 days I felt pretty clean. I relaxed in the river for about 30 minutes until the storms came overhead. I dried off and got into my tent just as it started to rain.

The road to Ghost Ranch was relatively boring. It was just a 9 mile road walk and some cross country to the place where the artist George O’ Keeffe lived. I was able to do laundry and get a hot meal. I’m staying there tonight and everyone around here is super welcoming. Overall it’s been a great 4 days.